Best Aquarium Equipment And Accessories for Cichlid Fish
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Green Terror Cichlid |
Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Aquarium Tank
- Filtration System
- Heater and Thermometer
- Lighting
- Substrate
- Decorations
- Rocks
- Driftwood
- Plants
- Water Testing Kit
- Water Conditioner
- Algae Scraper and Cleaning Tools
- Food
- Cover/Hood
- Powerheads
- Other Accessories
- Choosing Fish and Tankmates
- Conclusion
Introduction
Cichlids are vibrant, intelligent freshwater fish that have grown tremendously in popularity over the years. Setting up the proper cichlid aquarium environment requires specialized equipment and accessories suited to their needs. In this article, we will go over the key pieces of gear you need to successfully keep healthy, thriving cichlid fish.
Aquarium Tank
The first step in any cichlid setup is selecting an appropriately sized tank. Bigger is always better when it comes to cichlids, who are active swimmers that can be territorial.
Here are some minimum recommended tank sizes:
- For a single cichlid, a 29-gallon tank is adequate.
- For a small community of 4-6 cichlids, opt for a 55-gallon tank.
- Larger or more aggressive cichlids will need a 75-gallon or bigger tank. Oscars, for example, need at least 75 gallons.
- Severums, Jack Dempseys, Green Terrors, and other large cichlids require 100+ gallon tanks.
- You’ll also need sturdy tank stands that can support the immense weight of a filled cichlid aquarium. Purchase high-quality tanks with bracing to prevent bowing and busting.
Filtration System
- Robust filtration is imperative for cichlids, which have a high bio-load and create a lot of waste. You want filtration rated for at least double the tank size. For example, a 55-gallon cichlid tank would need a filter rated for 100+ gallons.
- Canister filters are ideal, as they offer tremendous media space for mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration. Use spray bars to create water turbulence and surface agitation. For extra-large tanks, pair a couple canisters together.
- Sumps or wet-dry filters are another excellent option common in advanced cichlid setups. They separate the display tank from filtration equipment for very efficient mechanical and biological filtering.
Heater and Thermometer
Cichlids require warm water ranging from 72-82°F depending on species. Use submersible heaters suitable for your tank size to maintain temperatures. Investing in dual heaters provides redundancy.
Pair heaters with accurate thermometers to monitor the temperature. Digital thermometers that constantly read out ambient temps are recommended over traditional floating glass types.
Lighting
While cichlids don’t need special aquarium lighting, basic light is required to view fish. Submersible LED light strips that span the back of the tank work great and last ages. Allow 1-2 watts per gallon of light.
Planted tanks can use stronger T5 or T8 fluorescent lighting. Have lights on a timer for 10-12 hours per day. Avoid direct sunlight hitting the tank to prevent algae overgrowth.
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Aquarium Sand |
Substrate
Bare bottom tanks are unsuitable for cichlids. They need substrate to sift, dig, and interact with. Smooth medium-grain sand or small gravel are your best bets. Pool filter sand is an affordable and natural-looking choice.
Aim for a 2-3” inch substrate bed. Avoid sharp gravel or large rocks that may injure digging fish. Also, steer clear of painted or artificial-looking gravel.
Decorations
Now let’s explore the types of decorations well-suited for a cichlid habitat.
Rocks serve many purposes in a cichlid tank. Cichlids love rearranging and digging through rock piles, which resemble the rocky crevices of their native waters.
Rocks also create territories to help diffuse aggression and provide hiding places. Stacking rocks allows fish to stake out individual spaces.
Allow at least 1 pound of rocks per gallon of water. Mix various shapes and sizes for a natural look. Locally sourced rocks may leach minerals and alter pH. Purchase specialty aquarium rocks instead.
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Driftwood |
DriftwoodDriftwood adds interest while mimicking the woody debris found in cichlid environments. Go for smooth, rounded manzanita or mopani wood pieces. Avoid sharp driftwood that could tear fins or cause injury. One or two pieces per tank are plenty. Boil, soak, and clean driftwood before adding it to minimize tannin leeching. Driftwood also makes an excellent base to attach Java fern.
Live Aquatic Plants
PlantsLive aquatic plants help absorb nitrates and provide additional territory markers. However, cichlids love shredding foliage! Stick to tough, sturdy varieties like Java fern, Anubias, and moss balls that can withstand cichlid abuse. Plant on driftwood or rocks versus in the substrate, as cichlids will constantly uproot plants. Plastic silk plants are another hassle-free alternative for adding greenery.
Water Testing KitA water test kit is essential for monitoring water parameters like pH, ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. Liquid test kits provide the most accurate readings. Test water 1-2 times per week and before/after water changes. Cichlids thrive in alkaline conditions around pH 7-8. African cichlid tanks may need crushed coral or chemicals like baking soda to raise pH and hardness.
Water ConditionerA quality water conditioner is a must-have to remove harmful chlorine and chloramines whenever doing water changes. Conditioners also bind heavy metals present in tap water that are toxic to fish. Look for conditioners that also replenish slime coats and contain electrolytes. Seachem Prime is a top choice. Always pre-treat new water before adding it.
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Algae Scraper |
Algae Scraper and Cleaning ToolsEven pristine tanks will accumulate some algae growth over time. An algae scraper with a long handle allows you to efficiently clean the glass without much hand-wetting. Use gravel vacuums, turkey basters, and aquarium nets to keep the substrate debris-free and remove waste during water changes. A sturdy 5-gallon bucket eases water hauling.
FoodCichlids are omnivores that need a varied diet. Choose a high-quality cichlid pellet or flake as the dietary staple. Supplement with frozen and live foods like bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia, etc. Feed 2-3 small meals per day. Provide veggies like blanched zucchini or spinach a few times a week for extra nutrients. Avoid overfeeding, which dirties water fast.
Cover/Hood
A glass canopy or hood maintains heat and humidity while preventing fish from jumping out. Hinged covers allow easy access for tank maintenance and feeding. Install LED lights in the hood for a sleek look.
PowerheadsPowerheads are small water pumps that create targeted water flow and turbulence. They oxygenate the tank and strengthen fish by making them swim against the current. Position powerheads to break up territories.Other AccessoriesAir pumps/air stones oxygenate the tank with bubbles and surface disruption.
Backgrounds make the tank look nicer when viewed from the sides.
Tubing, connectors, and valves allow closed loops and custom filtration setups to be built. Consider redundant pumps/heaters.
Choosing Fish and Tankmates
Take stocking slowly. Start with 2-3 juvenile cichlids and observe their growth and behavior before adding more. Mix African and South American species. Good tankmates include plecos, loaches, Silver Dollars, Giant Danios, Synodontis catfish, large barbs, and other medium-large cichlids. Small, passive fish tend to get bullied.
Conclusion
Setting up the optimal living environment for cichlids requires specialized filtration, lighting, decorations, and accessories tailored to their needs. Focus on over-filtering, providing ample rockwork and driftwood, maintaining proper water parameters, and stocking compatible tank mates. With quality gear and some dedication, your cichlid aquarium will thrive for years on end.
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